The Magic of Capri's Blue Grotto
Capri's glowing cave lingers in your mind forever.
I finally had my first COVID-19 vaccine shot (Pfizer) and I’m two weeks away from getting my second. I’ve been staring at the CDC card on my desk—my passport to the world and hopefully to the rest of my life.
Now that I’m this close to having that vaccine complete, I can’t stop thinking about where I want to go next. Yes, Canada, of course. But I also keep thinking about the type of memories I have built so far and those others that I have yet to create. I keep returning to those destinations that I associate with vivid color.
[Related: “Dreaming of Canada”]
Capri, Italy
My 2019 trip to Capri, Italy’s island paradise, is one that I often return to—a year and a half on and it still actively lives in my head.
Sitting opposite of downtown Naples—its dusty and louder Italian cousin—Capri hovers quietly over the water in the distance, usually obscured behind a chalky blue haze. For centuries, this idyllic island has been a cherished getaway for emperors, artists, monks, and celebrities.
To fall entirely under the spell of Capri means not only eating at its Michelin-rated restaurants, shopping at its luxury stores, or taking in its rich history, but also taking in its unparalleled horizon—a gradient of colors, from a brilliant emerald to an unforgettable lapis lazuli. One hidden slice of real-estate, our home while we were there, was the boutique hotel Villa Brunella, which cascades down Capri’s hillside, taking advantage of everything the island offers, providing breathtaking views and impeccable service.
We spent five nights on the island, learning our way through the winding alleys to find hidden shops, a place for a new bottle of wine every night, and a produce market.
Outside of our terrazzo, masses of boats could be seen in the distance (see Instagram photo below)—small boats for tourists, yachts, and super-yachts, complete with helipads and docks for their smaller, yet still big yachts. Celebrities are seen in Capri often, and those wanna-be celebrities hang around, hoping to be seen. But beyond the reputation of Capri as a playground for the rich—which I am definitely not—it is an incredible experience to walk its streets, eat its food, and swim in its waters.
The Blue Grotto
Perhaps the most clamored after tourist attraction on the island is a sea cave: the Blue Grotto. Hordes of small boats gather outside of the Blue Grotto entrance, where guides come to pick you up from your boat or from nearby steps, and take you through a small entry way into the cave that was once the personal swimming pool for Emperor Tiberius and housed statues of sea gods, like Neptune.
Yes, the Blue Grotto is a touristy thing to do on Capri. It is also a must-thing to do when you’re there for the first time.
How to See It
To get to the Grotto from the city of Capri, you can join a boat tour (from Marina Grande or Marina Piccola), which last 1-2 hours and costs roughly € 17. You can hire a private boat with a skipper for a tour of the island. They will also take you to the cave entrance. This is what we chose to do and the cost is dependent on your group size, length of time for the tour, the size of the boat, and the number of amenities offered. Expect it to cost around € 200 (more or less) for two people. (Ask your hotel about making arrangements.) Near the entrance of the Blue Grotto, you’ll briefly exit your boat and board a small rowboat to experience the cave-specific tour, after which you’re returned to your boat.
You can also take a bus (€ 2) or a taxi to reach the Blue Grotto from parts of the island. Travel time varies, but expect a ride of 15-20 minutes. In Anacapri, you can walk or take a bus to a stop near the steps that descend to the seaside. From there, a guide will pick you up at the water for the cave tour. Tickets with rowboat ride are € 14 per person, and then your guide will ask for a tip afterwards: giving a tip (and the amount) is up to you.
Tours are from 9am-5:00 pm and are dependent on waves. Your hotel should know if the cave is open for tours on any given day.
Entering the cave means ducking your head for a brief second while your guide pulls the boat in using a cable. It’s fast and once you’re inside, the light filters through the water and it is a stunning and glowing blue. Your time in the cave is only around 5-10 minutes, but it is worth every second. Guides will frequently sing in there and some people will hop out to swim.
The Blue Grotto remains one of my favorite moments of the island. It is not something you’d do every time you’re there, but it is a must-do at least once. Other grottos around the island—the Green Grotto, White Grotto, and the Love Grotto—are usually part of a private boat tour, but the Blue Grotto is the real crowd pleaser.
Capri is packed with places to see and things to do, none of which are disappointing. It is an island where the memories stay in full color and after this pandemic, I want as many of those as I can get.
Have a favorite, colorful place? Let me know in the comments.
Hi, I’m Brandon Withrow. I'm a freelance travel journalist—stranded by the pandemic. You’ll find me in places like The Daily Beast, Business Insider, and Sierra Magazine. Follow me on Twitter or Instagram or visit brandonwithrow.com.
Those photos! Wow.